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Routine Maintenance / Re: Oil Report
« Last post by WILDEBILL308 on Yesterday at 08:07:25 PM »
Yes some people have been sold on that method. I or you can demonstrate that that method is not as reliable or consistant. Simple take 3 samples and see if they match.
 You have too much chance in geting sludge and contaminants washed out of the bottom of the pan in your sample. You are also violating a very important part of the process. You should never drain your oil before you get the report back. If you get a report with a large anomaly / high reading you can't resample the oil. Now you are left wondering if it was a bad sample or do I realey have a problem. Changing the oil destroys the trend. If you have a suspicious sample/results you can re sample and see if the problem has gotten worse or has disappeared. Again if you have changed the oil your sample will mostlikley look good and you may realey have a problem and not know it.
There are only 2 ways to get a consistent sample, use a vacuum pump or a dedicated sampling port.
Bill
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Routine Maintenance / Re: Oil Report
« Last post by Brett Wolfe on Yesterday at 05:46:01 AM »
Bill,

I disagree on where to take the sample-- I always do it mid-stream (when approximately 1/2 the oil has drained) in draining from the drain plug.
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Routine Maintenance / Re: Oil Report
« Last post by WILDEBILL308 on June 18, 2018, 07:38:57 PM »
I agree with Dave.  One thing is you should never drain your oil before you get the report back. Never fill the sample bottle from the oil drain plug as you will get a bad/ false sample.
 Always use a sampling pump to get the sample. Never let the sampling tube hit the bottom of the pan as this will give you a false (contaminated) sample.
Bill
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Hey Dave, I've Got a Problem / Re: 2005 Bounder 37U Cat C7 Injector knock
« Last post by w4phj on June 18, 2018, 08:23:06 AM »
Prior to installing new engine coolant sender, injector knock only occurred during the warm up period. Once reaching
150F or so knock and smoke never occurred. Prior to making cold start, leaving the block heater on the night
before greatly reduced the knocking period.

At this point, sender replacement has cured my knocking.

Best, Craig

.



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w4ph,  thank you for you response. Question does this diesel knock go away after warmed
up engine and black smoke clears out.  This is a question that will lead to answer to your problem. If diesel knock stays after engine is warmed up, test drive motorhome up the road.
What you are looking for is low power and excess smoke. What this sounds like like could
be located in two areas. The first one you have a injector electrical connection to one of
your injectors loose and not firing ( in time with hot return engine oil floods all the injectors )
and combo of plastic electrical connector and metal snap over retaining will get loose and
engine oil gets into both connection pins on connector and incorrect voltage will not fire said
Injector. We have information on new area of diesel club forum that takes a step by step
easy repair for a do it yourself person. Is you have silver leaf should have a Event Code
164-11 Injection Actuation Pressure fault.  But sometime this area will not trigger a event code.
Second possible area of problem is the injection pressure regulator inside housing of your
Heui pump which is a Caterpillar non-severiceable part and requires exchange Heui injection
pump and the injection pressure regulator inside. Last there is what is called a IAP Injection
Actuation pressure sensor could be possible fault but you answered that question because
you can start and run your engine. Troubleshooting your problem in this order should correct
Diesel engine knock. Ask Dave,  Dave Atherton Retired Cat Mechanic
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Hey Dave, I've Got a Problem / Re: 2005 Bounder 37U Cat C7 Injector knock
« Last post by w4phj on June 17, 2018, 03:27:50 PM »
Thanks Dave,

Prior to changing engine coolant sensor the exhaust did make black puffs and the tach was not steady during knocking,

I had checked for water in the primary filter, never found any. Fuel tank is always kept full and biocide used.

The MH is parked inside in south Florida, usually a cold start is about 75F

Craig
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Air System / Re: 2006 Phaeton Freighliner C7 Air Filter Questions
« Last post by David.e.atherton on June 17, 2018, 09:25:09 AM »
Seeing the sites, good morning looking at your picture mainly the one on the bottom.
Lot of concern looking at picture through that little hole in housing and seeing lot of
engine oil and up on big hole on end where hose attaches presents of engine oil.
My suggestion can you send another picture of just the filter itself outside. We need to
know where this oil is coming from ( turbocharger tube hose end and is turbocharger
boot also show presents of oil. Second is the oil on the outside air connection to filter
housing. If source of oil is coming from the turbocharger side and boot is wet with engine
oil we have a problem. Your turbocharger needs replacement ( do not get alarmed yet )
I just reviewing your pictures. Ask Dave, Dave Atherton Retired Cat Mechanic
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W4phj,  indication of engine sound like a injector knock. Really not sure just how you describe
what is called a injector knock, but let me start here at startup depending on how cold it
your engine stays in the cold mode until water temp meet the ECM setting. Being you were
doing engine maintenance on startup than knock gone away think that is your problem
One thing to remember what you may think is warm out side your engine ECM tells engine
the value it clears out of cold mode. Second and engine knock can come from a ittle water
In fuel system passing through the injector and goes away. Third air within the fuel system
after sitting over night may cause a injector knock sound. Last low engine oil pressure or
sticking injector actuation pressure regulator upon startup.( may show event code 42-11 on
sliver leaf if you have one ) Will go way when engine warms up. Guess a good way if this
happen again to note: the exhaust smoke coming from back tail pipe and let me know results.
Ask Dave, Dace Atherton Retired Cat Mechanic
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Hey Dave, I've Got a Problem / Re: 2005 Bounder 37U Cat C7 Injector knock
« Last post by w4phj on June 16, 2018, 05:35:37 PM »
Replacement of engine coolant temperature cured my injector knock which occurred during engine warmup.

Thanks to all that provided tech support !!!!

Craig
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Gentleman, understand your problem about the atmosphere pressure sensor, Caterpillar
part number 161-1703 is part off group of ( 5 ) five volt sensor group that are all tied into
The engine ECM. Few things maybe been over looked in troubleshooting your problem.
First of all start and run engine at idle the atmosphere pressure should 14 psi and next the
Boost pressure sensor should read zero at idle. You silver leaf should show a event code
108-2 for the atmosphere pressure sensor. But when high high Rpm atmosphere pressure
sensor has a reading 14 psi. It is possible yes engine breather plugged but also there is
another twist, being part of group of 5 other 5 volt sensors that share the same common
signal wire to ECM. Need to look real close at the boost pressure sensor ( silver leaf event
code 102-7 ) this is a mechanical code related to turbo boost and wastegate opening. If
Problems occur the atmosphere pressure sensor number go down and boost pressure
go up. If atmosphere pressure sensor is bad engine will cut out and stop let sit for awhile
will start up and run. With the Group of 5 five volt sensors spec for electric voltage is 1/2
Volt plus or minus could be a short or ground  being all 5 sensors possibe feed back from
The boost pressure sensor. Ask Dave, Dave Atherton Retired Cat Mechanic
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